Video provided by David Burton
University of Missouri Extension
The specific link for this week’s video construction progress update produced 2/8/10 is at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGaZ2XuBZ2Q
After the current week, the newest update video showing progress being made at The Botanical Center can be viewed via YouTube by clicking the most recent dated link at on the main Extension page about the Botanical Center project at http://extension.missouri.edu/greene/bo ... eral.shtml
The video shows the signs of progress being made at the new Botanical Center building under construction at Nathanael Greene/Close Memorial Park 2400 S. Scenic, Springfield. For more information on Close Memorial Park visit www.friendsofthegarden.org
Questions on the video contact:
David L. Burton, Civic communication specialist
UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI EXTENSION, Office telephone: (417) 862-9284
Greene County Extension website: http://extension.missouri.edu/greene
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( 0 / 0 )MASTER GARDENERS’ TRAINING – SECOND IN A SERIES OF REPORTS
Thursday, February 4, 2010
By Peter Longley
Thursday, February 4, saw us looking at basic botany. Before we started, however, Patrick Byers gave us an interesting test on checking the freeze damage on peach buds. In early February, by taking a stem from last year’s growth just cut across the bud and see whether it is brown inside or green. If it is green the bud has not been frozen. The same can be done with grape vines. Although one may well find in Missouri that many buds have been frozen, it is in part nature’s compensation, as without this elimination, especially with peaches whose buds are very prolific, we would have too many peaches forming, causing us to have to thin them out later—a tedious process. Patrick then introduced Tim Schnakenberg, Agronomy specialist at Stone County Extension Center, Galena, Missouri, to put us through a course in Basic Botany. We started with the classification of plants.
Plants are unique. Some, like the Silversward in Hawaii, bloom every 40-50 years and then die. Some are insect collectors like the Nepenthis Sibuyanensis from the Philippines. Some are unique by shape such as the Parrot plant from Thailand. Note how we are here mixing proper names with common names. The trouble with this is that common names vary from place to place. This is why we classify plants in Latin. There are over 500,000 classified plant-like organisms. This is based on the code of the Swedish late eighteenth century botanist Carl Linneaus. Every plant has a unique taxon or name in Latin, a dead language that will not vary anywhere in the world. The name is divided into seven categories: Kingdom, Division, Class, Order, Family, Genus, and Species. So the common name ‘Bradford Pear’ as we know it in Missouri is really: Plantae Tracheophyta Angiospermae Rosales Rosaceae Pyrus Calleryana. Several examples of the breaking down of classification were given, but the importance, as serious botanists, of knowing at least the last two kingdoms in Latin, Genus and Species, was stressed. Plants are further classified as Annuals, Biennials and Perennials. Annuals are propagated seed to seed in one growing season. Biennials grow over two seasons and Perennials three or more. But, according to climate zones, Annuals can become Perennials and Perennials can become Annuals, so these are really local terms.
Plants are grown from seeds, and as such can be divided into two classes, Dicots and Monocots. Dicots have two sides to the seed and Monocots just one whole. When in foliage the leaves from plants with Dicot seeds have a network of branching veins, but Monocots have parallel leaf veins running in straight lines. The cell structure of Dicots has vascular veins in a ring whereas a Monocot has random vascular veins. Dicots have quantities of five petals in the flower whereas Monocots have quantities of six. So, if you are a true botanist you can work out whether ‘she loves you or she loves you not’ ahead of time! You will know the outcome! Finally, Dicots tend to have a few long roots whereas Monocots have a more fibrous mass of roots. Either way, the cells of a plant form tissue cells that give the Vascular system, Epidermis and Periderm or bark, and the tissues in turn develop the cells to form Organs: Roots, Stems, Leaves, Flowers, and Fruit. The Vascular tissues move water nutrients and carbohydrates (plants feed themselves). The vessels carrying water and nutrients are called Xylem and on the inside, and those carrying carbohydrates, are called Phloem and on the outside. The Xylem and the Phloem are separated by a band called Cambium. I only go into this detail here to show how it is that the Cambium we see as the rings in a tree allows us to count the tree’s years of growth as most trees are Dicots.
Without going into the same detail, let it suffice to say that on this Master Gardener course in basic botany, we studied the structure of roots, stems, nodes, leaves, buds, and flowers. As stems, it was interesting to note the difference between a bulb and a corm. The leaves on a bulb grow from the bottom of the bulb as in an onion or a daffodil, whereas from a corm they grow out of the top as in gladioli. Other modified stems are rhizomes and tubers. Leaves also have modifications. Spines, tendrils and bracts are leaves, including the spines on a cactus or the red bracts on a poinsettia. The basic biology of the flower was explained. A complete flower will have its female pistol which carries the ovary that produces the seed, male stamens from which pollen is passed to the pistil by wind or bees, petals, and sepals—small, green leaf-like parts at the base of the flower. Some plants are only one sex, however, and lack either stamen or pistil. These varieties require cross-pollination, usually by bees, to survive. It is the ovary wall in the base of the pistil that develops into the fruit around the seed—some edible, some not. Germination is mostly caused by moisture, but light can also cause germination. Seeds turned up by a plowshare sometimes germinate by light or a combination of light and moisture. Night plowing can greatly reduce this risk of surface seed germination by up to 40%. The ancient Egyptians learned they could split rocks in quarries just by creating a crack in the stone and filling it with seeds, then watering the seeds so that their expansion would split the rock. Pretty amazing.
The leaves create the life force of a mature plant. They are the food factories. The process is called Photosynthesis or the production of carbohydrates. Carbon Dioxide (CO2) and Water (H2O) from the leaf creates through light, Sugar and Oxygen (O2). This gives energy growth to the plant. With this growth through sugar and oxygen more leaves are created and the process can be repeated. This process is called Respiration (One could almost call this the process of the plant breathing in the energy for creation and breathing out to create growth.) Respiration can take place day or night. Leaves also act as an overflow for the water supply coming from the roots. Water is shed through stomata holes under the leaf—a process called Transpiration. In a drought, these holes close up to retain as much water as possible. Also, this is why on certain plants, especially houseplants, it easy to see the water seeping out from the end and underside of the leaf. The water coming up from the roots also carries the earth’s minerals to the plant and is responsible for keeping the stem firm and stiff, which is why wilt occurs in drought. In warm weather, Transpiration also acts as a cooling procedure somewhat like human perspiration.
The final topic for discussion was Allelophathy, the process whereby certain plants produce a chemical in the roots that is released into surrounding soil. This causes the dominance of this plant against any trespassers in its area. This is why it is very hard to grow other plants near walnuts or thistles that both have this property. Alpha alpha is another example. Napweed thistle is a particular problem now in Missouri pastures. There have been experiments with weevils to try to destroy these dominant weeds, but it is not very effective as thistle spores weigh outweigh weevil damage!
As you can see, this course is intensive, but very worthwhile for those of us who may not have been brought up as botanists, but love our gardens. Personally, I garden as a painter. I have painted all my life and I see the garden as a palette, but this Master Gardener foundation might help me to approach design more scientifically and less experimentally, allowing me to save paint! I will keep you informed week by week.
Peter Longley , MA (Cantab)
Friends of the Garden, Writer and author of novels www.PeterLongleyBooks.com
Note from George: As some of you know Peter represented the Friends of the Garden at the American Public Gardens Association (APGA) Conference in St Louis last summer writing an extensive report on the conference. Peter is a member of Friends of the Garden and currently provides us a number of garden services including the maintenance of the English Garden which her also designed and built. Read more about Peter at the Authors Corner http://www.friendsofthegarden.org/authors.html His comprehensive resume and biography is available by request.
Sit back, relax and let Peter detail his Master Gardeners' Training over the next few weeks. He brings educational information that Friends of the Garden members will find important and useful going forward. I believe when many area gardeners see the detail and quality of the Master Gardeners' Training Program that they will want to participate in future classes. I already know I would!
Part three in the series will be posted as training is completed. Part two was posted yesterday in case you missed it.
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( 0 / 0 )Agenda for the Friends of the Garden Meeting
Thursday February, 11, 2010 - 5:00 pm
Chesterfield Family Center 2511 W. Republic Rd.
NOTE: The Garden Committee DOES meet at 4:30 pm to review the Dwarf Confer Garden
Note to the Board: The subjects and order of the agenda may change. We will cover what we can in approx one hour. Please check the agenda for your discussion points. Please keep presentations and comments short since we have a large agenda. FOG meetings are now open to all FOG membership & guests.
Call to Order: 5:00 pm - Roll call of the board members by Gail S.
Approval of Minutes: Prepared by Gail S. (Received by email)
Treasurer's Report: Prepared by Kauleen V. (Received by email)
Guest Speaker: FOG member - Dow Whiting of Garden Adventures Nursery www.gardenadventuresnixa.com Hwy 14 West Nixa - Topic: The Collapse of the White Pine in Missouri.
Reports Development Group:
1) Susan B...Development - overall review of the committee meeting details Feb 9th. New art group?
2) Cindy W...2010 New Membership Packet under development - Bob K-motion for $850 production investment
3) George D...Approx 30 NEW Members joined in January. Our goal is still 1000 members by the opening of the Botanical Center... Tell a Friend, the importance of networking with people you know... Hand out fliers to people... Ask people if they want to join FOG... We must "grow" more members if we are to continue growing FOG and our garden services... Please consider membership growth as a major responsibility. Add names to mail list.
4)Publicity:
A) Lee C...New developments in the revised FOG web site www.friendsofthegarden.org
B) Lee C...The new speakers bureau - Want to help, please contact Lee.
C) George F... Review Spring Newsletter progress all articles due by Mar 1st.
D) Christine C...Update new FOG Community Garden Calendar http://www.swmogardens.com/app/webroot/ ... ar/events/
and Community Garden Forum http://www.friendsofthegarden.org/forum/index.php
E) Cindy W... Butterfly Festival review first meet Jan 23 and next planned meet Feb 27. Any needs, etc.
Reports Garden Group:
1) Bob C...Garden review Adopt-A-Garden, Parks Volunteer ID Program, etc.
2) Bob C...Review development plans for new Confer Garden and irrigation needs for park
3) Bob C...Review Redbud Garden and Butterfly House expansion
4) Bob K...Developing a team of docents for the 2010 butterfly project.
5) George D...Vandalism 4WD Jan 30th, story here http://friendsofthegarden.org/pblog/ind ... 201-153309
Old Business:
1) Dana M... Review Volunteers Winter Lawn & Garden Show, Feb... Fri 19th - Sun 21st; Hours Fri 9-6; Sat 9-6; Sun 11-5... Booth with Master Gardeners. Also, introduce Ag Day at Rutledge-Wilson Mar 20th; Sister Cities Spring Kite Festival, Sat Mar 27th; Naturescaping at Nature Center, Apr 3rd
2) Building Construction - You can view the newest video update Jan 26th here>> http://extension.missouri.edu/greene/bo ... eral.shtml
3) Fund set up at CFO "Friends of the Garden Growth & Maintenance Fund". The address for tax deductible donation is: Community Foundation of the Ozarks, 425 E. Trafficway, Springfield, MO 65806 or send it direct to Friends of the Garden. Enter "Friends of the Garden Growth & Maintenance Fund" on the memo line.
4) Any one interested in assisting either the Development, Garden, Publicity or other FOG groups please contact George D or any group chair to join. We need the input from all board members and other FOG members who would like to assist with our growth during 2010 and beyond.
5) New Botanical Center Coord hire date still approx Mar and Guide by Cell http://www.guidebycell.com/ Garden Tour package contract date estimated Mar.
Other Business:
1) George D... Annette (Close) Pennell Memorial Fund - Majors sister - Obituary in News-Leader Jan. 29th, link>> http://friendsofthegarden.org/pblog/ind ... 129-175345
2) George D... MO Native Plant Society http://www.missourinativeplantsociety.org/ exploratory meeting, Mar 9th, details> http://www.friendsofthegarden.org/forum ... opic=281.0
3) George D... Board meet minutes posted to forum after approval. Board meet agenda posted to blog & forum
4) George D... Executive Committee members George D; Bob C; Kauleen V; Gail S; Major C; Bob K; Susan B; Cindy W; Christine C.-- Please feel free to make any suggestions to any member.
5) George D... Support for Greene County Extension Service - local office operating budget problems impact Master Gardener, 4-H, other programs, learn more> http://friendsofthegarden.org/pblog/ind ... 112-165748
Future Meetings:
1) Development Committee Meeting Tues - March 9th , 9:00 am, Brentwood Library.
2) FOG board meeting Thur - March 11th, 5:00 pm Chesterfield Family Center. March speaker Mark and/or Renae Bernskoetter on the Master Gardener Green County organization. Renae is current President while Mark is Past President.
Adjournment: Board Member name tags, leave them when you leave (If we have any).
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( 0 / 0 )MASTER GARDENERS’ TRAINING – FIRST IN A SERIES OF REPORTS
January 26 through February 2, 2010
By Peter Longley
The Springfield-Greene County Botanical Center has been the goal of Friends of the Garden from the commencement of clearing land to create Drummond Lake and Close Memorial Park until today. Now, the dream is close to reality—the building is going up, the landscaping around the center has been planned. The Center embraces more than just Close Memorial Park , however. It is a bringing together of our several independent parks and educational bodies interested in the quadrant of land off Scenic Avenue that makes up Nathanael Greene and Close Memorial Parks. Friends of the Garden will share the building with The Missouri University Extension and Master Gardeners, as well as the Springfield-Greene County Parks Board. In turn, this will bring under one roof, the Mizumoto Japanese Stroll Garden, the Gray-Campbell Homestead, the Federated Garden Clubs Garden, the Master Gardeners’ Demonstration Garden, the remaining land of Nathanael Greene Park and the extensive gardens of Close Memorial Park, including the Bill Roston Butterfly House, not to mention the anticipated grounds around the Botanical Center itself. With all this exciting development that will almost certainly create one of the finest Botanical Centers and Gardens in the Midwest , it is only natural that we should start on a cross-pollination of all our interested parties. It is for this reason, along with hoped for personal botanical growth (no pun intended), that I have chosen, while our gardens are dormant, to make my winter project attendance at the classes of this year’s Master Gardeners’ Training Course.
There are about fifty of us from Greene County undergoing training this year, some of whom are members of Friends of the Garden, including Todd Young, Nancy Hopkins, and Kelly McGowan. Hopefully, in the future we can encourage many more of our active volunteer members to consider this training. Volunteers will always be the backbone of our future work with the whole park.
We had our first class last week on Tuesday, January 26. We were all presented with a veritable horticultural bible, Grounds for Gardening, produced by the Missouri University Extension, that is a very full and detailed encyclopedia of extension advice and leaflets. The class was conducted by Patrick Byers, Regional Horticultural Specialist with the University of Missouri Extension . He started with a brief introductory course on What is Horticulture? This was well summarized by a quote from Gail Nonnecke: Horticulture is the science and art of producing nutritional plants that provide sustenance for the human body and beautiful plants that provide sustenance for the human soul. Within this viewpoint, what is Agronomy? What is Forestry? What is Horticulture? There are edible plants and aesthetic plants. Have you heard of Olericulture? It is the cultivation of vegetables. Pomology? It is the cultivation and management of fruit and nut plants. Floriculture? It is the cultivation and management of cut flowers, flowering plants, and foliage plants. There are specialties in horticulture like Nursery crop culture, Turf management, Landscaping, including some elements of architecture. Obviously, all these things will be explored as we go through our training.
The main thrust of the first class was to tackle the vast subject of horticultural propagation, asexual and sexual. The asexual methods are what we term grafting and budding, taking cuttings, layering, division, and micropropagation. The sexual methods are working with seed. Patrick Byers, with detailed illustrations, explained each technique and the best tools to successfully bring them about. An interesting difference between asexual propagation and sexual propagation is the cloning factor. With asexual methods the clone should be an exact replica of the plant from which the graft, bud, cutting, layer, or division came. With seeds, there is not the same exact cloning guarantee. Generally, the asexual methods produce mature plants in a shorter time period than growing from seed. The most complex asexual method seems micropropagation that is growing plants from tissue culture. In essence, this requires aseptic laboratory conditions, but has the advantage of massive reproduction. For seed propagation, bed preparation was discussed, highlighting the need for oxygen, moisture, temperature, and light. This was followed with a detailed series of illustrations on how to obtain hybrid seeds from crossing two parents and the pollination methods and needs of different types of plant to create seeds. Some plants self-pollinate and many require cross-pollination through insects and bees, and some again, can be pollinated by hand. The dormant period of seeds was discussed and the best means of creating germination. Some require stratification—exposure to cool, moist conditions, and some respond to scarification—the scratching or removal of the seed coat to induce germination. Patrick Byers used examples of treatments for a number of vegetables from tomatoes and beans, to radishes, parsley, and squash.
Our second class on Thursday, January 28, was postponed because of inclement weather conditions, so our second class took place on Tuesday, February 2. It was conducted by Christopher Starbuck, Division of Plant Studies, University of Missouri . The topic was The Establishment and Care of Woody Ornamentals. The presentation was permeated with humor, but basically had a simple message of common sense: Plant trees and woody shrubs you know thrive in your area, and be aware of their lifelong needs. Sadly, many that buy from the nurseries do not pay attention to either of these essentials. What is our climate zone in Missouri ? We have “ Michigan winters and Georgia summers.” The best general average for Missouri is now considered to be Zone 6, but in the summer we are Zone 7, and in the southeast corner of the state things grow that will not grow anywhere else in the state. We have tremendous temperature fluctuations in the winter. Christopher Starbuck used the example of November 11, when in 1911 the temperature dropped from 82 to 13 in one day. On the same date in 1940, the temperature dropped 60 to minus 5 in a few hours, and on Halloween in 1991, it dropped from 55 to minus 5. Severe fall and Easter freezes are common, often following mild warm Indian summer and spring weather. The result is we suffer a 10% loss in our plantings. A useful tip to handle the fall frost is not to fertilize too much in the late summer. Dormant plants can withstand much lower temperatures than those can that are actively growing. Also, don’t mulch too early so that the soil temperature has the opportunity to adjust slowly. Fall pruning was also discouraged as it encourages growth. Prune in the spring. In the warmer spells, there can be a vast difference in day and night temperatures that in the winter can cause sunscald, which usually attacks a tree on the southwest side. Wrapping a tree in a light-colored material or painting with white latex paint can protect from this, deflecting the sun. Dark wrapping will have the opposite effect, attracting heat and then when the temperature drops causing cell death. “Plants don’t heal, they compartmentalize,” and often damage will not kill as the effected area is walled off. Watch the location of plantings with reference to power lines. Trees grow. Note, too, that 2” trees actually grow a lot faster than 5” trees because the root system has been dramatically reduced in harvesting. The larger tree has to grow its roots back to the full root spread of a 5” tree, first. With a 2” tree it grows back a lot faster.
When considering location, light is also important. Trees are often planted in the wrong location, and true shade plants are limited in varieties. Even shade impatienses require light at least part of the day to bloom well. Junipers, often planted as a ground cover under an ornamental tree, do not do nearly as well as in full sun. Dwarf lilacs are the same. This should be born in mind when designing beds around the walls of a house, particularly on the north and east. Not only is it a matter of sunlight, but also a matter of moisture. Conifers may look good against a brick wall, but they often get mites because their roots are too dry, overhanging eaves etc., detracting from rainfall. Some plants like hydrangeas, and most azaleas and rhododendrons, will find afternoon sun, too strong, so should be planted in areas that get afternoon shade.
Water is next. Evergreens in general, and plants in the Prunus family, are intolerant of excess soil moisture. They need good drainage, but junipers and pines prefer dry soil and can be killed by even short periods of waterlogging. Long periods of soil saturation are particularly damaging when temperatures are high. Roots require oxygen to take up water, so the symptoms of waterlogging are usually the same as the symptoms of drought stress. Plants are very resilient, however, and tend to adapt under normal circumstances, but with our Mid-west swings, although the annual precipitation might in theory suit a plant, excessive precipitation is often followed quickly by high temperatures and drought. Automatic lawn or turf irrigation is a common cause of mortality. Excess water may gather in the planting holes of recently placed trees and shrubs, which is particularly damaging when air temperatures are high.
When it comes to pest resistance, beware what you plant. Old-fashioned crab apples lose much of their summer foliage to apple scab and cedar apple rust fungal diseases, so plant the new cultivars that are more resistant. Avoid Scotch pines. In this region, it is highly susceptible to pine wilt disease caused by the pine wilt nematode.
There was a long discussion on planting. The common error is to plant too deep. With our hard clay and rock soils it is not depth that will attract root growth, but width. Do not break up soil under the root ball, it will only cause the root ball to sink and then the roots will grow upward often girdling and strangling the trunk. Ideally, there should be a root flair from the trunk at base level. Work the soil around the hole to allow for root spread outwards. Beware of mulch volcanoes! Apply mulch no deeper than 4” and taper down to less than an inch deep near the trunk to make a bagel shape. In fall, mix leaves with mulch. Don’t use weedmat. Weedmat stops the rotting mulch from being drawn into the soil as organic matter. If you have to stake, do so only as necessary to prevent movement of the root ball so that the upper trunk can still move in the wind. Don’t stake for more than a year. Early fall and late spring are the best times for planting, when soil is warm enough to establish root growth. Early fall has the advantage of a longer period of moist soil through winter into spring, especially for pines, but dogwood, hawthorn, and scarlet oak etc., will all do better after a spring planting. The only pruning really recommended at planting is to correct narrow branch angles or forked leaders, and of course, dead branches. Otherwise, excessive pruning removes growing points that produce root-stimulating growth regulators. Pruning also reduces photosynthetic leaf surface area; sugars from photosynthesis are required for root growth. Excessive use of fertilizer was also discouraged. Excessive nitrogen fertilization can stimulate the growth of rank, water-inefficient foliage at the expense of root growth. Mulching with compost usually eliminates the need to fertilize. If applying fertilizer, be moderate, and wait until at least one month after planting. Over watering can be problematic, too. A new tree or shrub usually requires small amounts of water applied frequently. Beware of over-watering shrubs growing in automatic sprinkled lawns. A drip system of irrigation is best. It is the root ball that needs to be kept moist.
Once established, a common problem with certain plants such as hollies, pin oaks, and azaleas is chlorosis. This condition, usually characterized by a yellowing of plant leaves, happens when iron in the soil is converted to an unavailable form because of high soil pH (about 7.0 or greater). This is hard to treat, but best chance is to drill iron sulphate into holes about 3 ft from the trunk. An alternative is to use Copperas watered in thoroughly at about 30 pounds per 1,000 square feet. In Missouri , Azaleas will do best in raised beds.
Peter Longley , MA (Cantab)
Friends of the Garden, Writer and author of novels www.PeterLongleyBooks.com
Note from George: As some of you know Peter represented the Friends of the Garden at the American Public Gardens Association (APGA) Conference in St Louis last summer writing an extensive report on the conference. Peter is a member of Friends of the Garden and currently provides us a number of garden services including the maintenance of the English Garden which he also designed and built. Read more about Peter at the Authors Corner http://www.friendsofthegarden.org/authors.html His comprehensive resume and biography is available by request.
Sit back, relax and let Peter detail his Master Gardeners' Training over the next few weeks. He brings educational information that Friends of the Garden members will find important and useful going forward. I believe when many area gardeners see the detail and quality of the Master Gardeners' Training Program that they will want to participate in future classes. I already know I do!
Part two in the series will be posted tomorrow morning.
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( 0 / 0 )Garden tool - the Bulb Bopper® - for planting bulbs
Submitted for posting with note by Mimi Aumann:
This one seems like a winner for botanical gardens! One of the reviews also stated another feature: you do not have to disturb other plants in order to place bulbs strategically...
Thought I would pass this along for those doing the bulb planting - the squirrels and the stones in Stone County have made me reconsider attempting this again around my place. If I finally get them in the ground, the squirrels politely dig them up and eat them!
As seen on HGTV and other gardening sites and programming...
At 7:35pm on February 5, 2010, Frank Paxton III said…
"I make a garden tool - the Bulb Bopper® - for planting bulbs".
http://www.bulbbopper.com
It's getting very good reviews from customers. Check this out:
http://www.gardeners.com/Power-Bulb-Pla ... lt,cp.html
The reviews are down the page a bit.... 4 out of 5 stars! (There's always somebody that won't read the directions!)
Note from George: Do you have a special tool you like, that your fellow gardeners would also like? Please share the information, email: news@friendsofthegarden.org
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