THE FOG BLOG "Friends of the Garden" Interactive News2010-03-15T03:21:41ZNo AuthorCopyright 2010, No AuthorSPHPBLOGAmorphophallus Titanum the Corpse Plant on YouTube & Article in USA Today & MoreAmorphophallus Titanum the Corpse Plant on YouTube & Article in USA Today & More As you can see "Audrey" the Corpse Plant has made it "big time" on the World Wide Web and national news publications. Following are a few:
Nathanael Greene Park on YouTube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhq2I_JetlM Posted by the Springfield City View See the rare Amorphophallus Titanum - or the Corpse Plant known for its horrible stench when blooming - (was) displayed at Nathanael Greene/Close Memorial Park.
http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=1102390416406 Videos Posted by City of Springfield, MO Come and see the rare Amorphophallus Titanum - or the Corpse Plant known for its horrible stench when blooming - (was) displayed at Nathanael Greene/Close Memorial Park... each day in the community meeting room on the north side of the park toward the Japanese Stroll Garden.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Marthe told me about this... Here is the article from the Missouri State Topics Page USA Today. Huge news location!
USA Today Article published Wednesday, March 10, 2010
Springfield - About 8,000 people stopped to smell a stinky plant at a garden center. The visitors came to the Friends of Nathanael Greene/Close Memorial Park last week to see "Audrey," a tropical "corpse" plant from Sumatra that blooms every six to 10 years.
Philadelphia area gardening classes and workshops: March 2010 The Examiner 2010-02-18
http://article.wn.com/view/2010/02/18/P ... arch_2010/ ]]>http://friendsofthegarden.org/pblog/index.php?entry=entry100314-1858092010-03-14T00:00:00Z2010-03-14T00:00:00ZMASTER GARDENER TRAINING: CONCOLUSION SEVEN PART SERIESMASTER GARDENER TRAINING: CONCOLUSION SEVEN PART SERIES March 4 through March 9, 2010 By Peter Longley
On March 4 the topic was Turf Grass Management for Master Gardeners presented by Brad Fresenburg, Turfgrass Specialist, Division of Plant Sciences, University of Missouri-Columbia. Brad Fresenbug started by drawing our attention to the labeling of seed. A good label will tell us the name of the variety and the species of grass. A packet that just tells us it is Kentucky Bluegrass does not tell us if this is a good variety for Missouri conditions, but many chain stores sell such packages across the nation in many different growing conditions The label should record the variety as well: Limousine Kentucky Bluegrass. Always look at the test date on the label, too. For best results we should be looking at a test date within twelve months so we know we are getting the previous year’s seed. Missouri is in a transition zone. We can grow many grasses both cool season and warm season, but there is no particular grass that is good year round. We, therefore, need blends of both cool weather and warm weather seed when sowing a lawn. The label will tell us what is in a blend. A blend of one species such as Tall Fescue might include four varieties. This helps with disease as only one blend might be attacked in a lawn allowing the other three to keep the lawn going. Mixtures might include two species, of which one might be a blend. This can be a cool season and warm season mix and really help mask diseases. Beware, however, of the Contractor’s mix. This is often a high percentage of annual Ryegrass, as Ryegrass establishes fast and will help to anchor the soil on a new homesite. If the percentage of annual Ryegrass is too much, as in these contractor mixes, the permanent grasses such as Fescues will be too thin. It should not be more than 20% of a good mix. Cool season grasses include tall Fescue, Kentucky Bluegrass, perennial Ryegrass, fine Fescue and creeping Bentgrass (Putting Greens). They have a 9-10 month growing season and have best root growth in soil at 50 to 65 degrees, but will grow until soil freezes. The best shoot growth is at 60 -75 degrees, giving their strongest cover in spring and fall. Warm season grasses that in Missouri could be blended with the cool season grasses, include Zoysiagrass, Bermuda grass, and Buffalo Grass. They have only a six-month growing season from May to October, but have their best root growth at soil temperatures of 75-85 degrees, although they will start greening up at 55 degrees. Their best shoot growth is at 80-95 degrees.
Tall Fescue has the best cool-season heat and drought tolerance, but has Brown Patch disease problems. It does not recover well from heavy wear, so periodic overseeding is necessary to maintain uniformity. It is a bunch grass. Kentucky Bluegrass is less drought resistant than Tall Fescue, but has an appealing color and can spread into worn lawn or playing field areas. So, it is useful in a mix with Tall Fescue, but should not be more than 10% as the seed is much smaller than Fescue seed and therefore has a greater volume through the spreader. You can tell Bluegrass by its boat shaped leaf tip and translucent mid-vein. Both Fescue and Bluegrass survive better in stress than Perennial Ryegrass, which is good for quick repair to sports fields as it germinates in 5-10 days. It has good wear potential, but poor stress tolerance in heat. Ryegrass has a darker red base than Tall Fescue and its leaf blades are much finer and very shiny on the back. Fine Fescues are good for shady lawns, especially Creeping Red Fescue. Its leaves are needle-like.
Among the warm season grasses ‘Meyer’ Zoysia is recommended for use in Missouri, but it can not be seeded, so is best for a small area that can be sodded, sprigged, or plugged. It requires 6-8 hours of full sun daily. It competes well with weeds, requires little water, but it is dormant in winter. It is often used for golf course fairways and can be mown lower than Fescues. In the home garden, however, it can be invasive like Bermuda grass. Bermuda grass is good for sports fields because of its density and growth habit, but it is not recommended for lawns because of its invasive nature. Buffalo grass is our native grass, but is not a dark green, being almost silvery. It is very deep rooted, which makes it survive our harsh dry summers well. It is great for prairie gardens, and can be used as a no-mow grass, as it has a maximum height of 8 inches. Its disadvantage is its low density, which allows weed growth, especially in its dormant cool season when winter annuals take over in the spring like HenBit and Chickweed.
That soil test is as important for grasses as all other plantings, when it comes to deciding fertilizer needs. pH for grasses should be between 6.4 and 6.8. This will determine whether we need to add lime. Phosphorus and Potassium are vital. Nitrogen is needed, but often overdone. Too much nitrogen, especially in the spring, can lead to Brown Patch disease in the summer, especially in Tall Fescue. Nitrogen should be applied mostly in the fall, September through November. It should not be applied in spring with a pre-emergent, and only should be applied lightly in the summer (Half the rate of the fall). For starter lawns Quick release Nitrogen is good, but for established lawns always use slow release Nitrogen. There are some good organic fertilizer sources: Organica 8-1-1 Corn Gluten is good for pre-emergent activity, but not good for overseeding as it will kill the seeds. Bradfield 3-1-5 is recommended as a slow release organic fertilizer, as is Milorganite 6-2-0 w/5% Fe (actually human waste product from Milwaukee). All organics take time, allow two years for real results. The Phosphorous (P) is required for good seedling growth and root formation. The Potassium (K) also enhances root growth, improves heat and drought tolerance, increases cold tolerance, and enhances disease resistance. When spreading fertilizers use low calibration and run over the lawn in opposing directions to get an even cover. When overseeding, you must scratch the seedbed. It is always best to grass seed in the fall, giving six months of root growth before summer stress. Spring seeding and crabgrass control should be done as early as possible in March/April. Core aerification is excellent in spring or fall for cool season grasses allowing passage to roots for air, water, and nutrients. Leave the cores for natural breakdown.
Good mowing maintenance is vital. Higher mowing heights encourage greater root growth of grasses and better competition against weeds. Ideal height for Fescues should be 4 inches. This will reduce weeds 80%. If there is Bluegrass, 3 inches might be better. Fine Fescues in shady lawns should definitely be mown at 4 inches. Only Zoysiagrass should be cut low. Don’t bag clippings if possible, as they are excellent lawn mulch. Mow frequently enough to avoid any clumping of grass waste, as this will attract disease. Keep blades sharp so as not to tear grass. Torn grass browns and harbors disease.
Do not over water. When there are footprints or wheel marks on the lawn, it is time to water. Don’t water because of brown spotting in lawns. The brown spotting is usually disease caused by fungi and excess of spring rainwater. Warm temperatures and water cause disease. It is best to water in early morning from 4:00 am to 8 am. Evaporative losses are then minimized, there is better distribution as usually there is less wind, and it knocks dew off leaf blades and decreases the leaf wetness period compared to evening watering. Wetness overnight can lead to fungal growth and infection.
Annual weeds and perennial weeds are best eliminated by higher mowing, but herbicides can be applied in spring a month after growth begins. It is best to attack dandelions in the fall. Summer annual grassy weeds like Crabgrass, Foxtails, and Goosegrass are best controlled by pre-emergent treatment usually granular. Corn glutin can be used as a non-chemical. Again, good mowing habits will strengthen the good grasses against these annual grassy weeds, especially height of cut. Perennial grassy weeds like Bermuda grass (as an invader), or Nimbleweed are best spot treated with non-selective herbicides such as glyphosate products. Corsair is good for control of Tall Fescue and perennial Ryegrass in Kentucky bluegrass and Zoysiagrass. Ornamec is good for control of Bermuda grass in Tall Fescue and Zoysiagrass. Wild garlic is best eliminated by mowing at height high enough for dense good grasses to crowd it out. Yellow nutsedge can be spot treated with Sedge Hammer (halosulfuron) or Basagran T & O (bentazon). Prostrate Knotweed likes compacted soil, so aeration will help control this. Purslane likes bare soils, so overseeding will help reduce this weed. Dandelions indicate a low calcium soil. Plantains will tell us our pH is too high. Violets occur in thinned out lawns in shade, so thicken up by cutting high. Perennial broadleaf weeds like these can be treated with selective herbicides—most a mixture of 2,4-D, dicamba and MCPP. A new product is Weed-b-Gon MAX. Look for grass seeds that are disease resistant cultivars, mow high, little and often, and most of these problems will go away.
Insects like stressed lawns, white grubs of beetles in particular, including the Japanese Beetle. A healthy lawn is far less likely to attract these white grubs than a stressed lawn. Grub insecticides can be used if caught early enough. Sod Webworms and Fall Armyworms, and Chinch bugs are the major turfgrass insects. Moles are a major problem, especially in wet summers. They feed on earthworms. Earthworms are great for the lawn, but in wet weather they come close to the surface causing the moles to burrow just under the surface to feed. In Missouri, if our summers are normal and dry, moles will go away as the earthworms will burrow deeper in drought conditions. Mole traps are a good solution, but messy, and can often be ineffective if not placed properly in the runs. Castor Bean pellets will work as a mole repellant, sending the moles to your neighbor’s lawn! Gel baits can be effective if properly applied to the runways, but wear rubber gloves whenever handling or placing baits in tunnels. You must know which tunnels are active. If you make several holes in a tunnel and they plug up again in two to three hours, you have an active run. Poison Peanuts are a wasted effort, as moles are carnivores, not herbivores, feeding only on worms and insects. Don’t waste money on Sonics—they have not been proven to work effectively. A dog in the yard is actually the best way to keep down the moles.
Our final class titled Fruits was conducted on March 9 by Patrick Byers, Regional Horticultural Specialist, University of Missouri Extension. Missouri is far enough north for hardy varieties of fruits to grow, but also far enough south for experiment with less hardy varieties, so fruit is an attractive opportunity for Missouri gardeners, but we should ask ourselves if we have the place for fruit on our property? What fruit do we like, and how long will it take to produce? Some fruits are one year; others take two, three, or four years to produce. Is it difficult to grow? That depends on the species and variety. Blackberries and strawberries are easy. Blueberries are difficult, and grapes rather specialist. Peaches, plums, and apples are at the mercy of our sometimes severe late frosts in the spring. Blueberries and blackberries don’t need spraying which is an advantage. Almost all other fruits will need spraying. Finally, it should be noted that many fruits could also be an attractive part of our landscaping. Apples, pears, cherries, and peaches all produce wonderful blossom, and strawberries and blueberries can greatly enhance a border or even be produced in patio pots. Pawpaw can give a tropical feel in the right setting. However, the great advantage of growing our own fruits must be the ability to harvest at exactly the right time when the fruit is at its juiciest best. This is particularly true of peaches and pears that commercial growers have to harvest earlier than the home grower, because of the delicacy of the fruit in transportation. At full maturity, bruising will easily occur in transport.
Fruit is healthy. It provided vitamins and minerals. It is good fiber. It has antioxidants and certain anti-cancer properties, and provides us with ellagic acid. These are all good for us and in turn we can say fruit is good for our soul!
We need to be sure we select the right cultivars for our needs. There are showy blossom peaches and cherries and non-showy cultivars. The fruit is as good either way, but is the blossom important for your landscape? Fireblight is common in Apples and Pears, but there are many disease and insect resistant cultivars now—so pick apples and pears that are fireblight resistant. The easiest strawberries are June strawberries with a three-week harvest. This is great for jam making, but if you want breakfast strawberries throughout the summer, think about Day Neutral and everbearing cultivars. For grapes, are you thinking wine or dessert?
Select the right planting space. Most fruits like full sun, except raspberries. They also like to be close to a water source. Most fruits need 1.5 to 2 inches of water per week. Trickle hoses and drip irrigation is best to control this. Mulch also helps. Fruits need air movement. Raised beds can help with this. Good air movement leads to fewer disease problems. Soil needs to be well drained, slightly acid, and moderately fertile. Organic matter is important. So, get that soil test! Fruit trees are an investment in the future, so take care in planting. Plant at the same depth as the trees were planted in the nursery. See that grafts are 2” to 4” above the soil. It is best to plant apples, grapes, and blackberries in the fall. Be sure to keep stock moist when received from nurseries by mail order. Keep moist when healed in before planting.
Pruning is an important annual job. A useful tip—purchase hand pruners with red handles. Green handle pruners are more likely to get lost when put down. Pruning shapes plants, gives them a strong framework, and corrects problems like diseased limbs. When removing diseased limbs take enough off below diseased area as disease can be held within the branch below the obvious area. For fruit trees there are basically two pruning patterns—Open Center pruning and Central Leader pruning. This is essential in the first year to establish the right growth pattern of the tree. Open Center pruning means selecting three or four scaffles or new branches about 18” up the trunk that have a wide angle to the trunk of 45 to 60 degrees and then remove the leader. This gives an open growth pattern in the future for Peaches and Nectarines or Japanese Plums. Central Leader pruning keeps the leader and the scaffles that are at 45 to 60 degrees, but eliminates the other scaffles. This is the growth pattern for Apples and Pears. This must be established in first year pruning. Many fruit trees, despite good pruning and husbandry will not fruit for three years, so be patient.
Spring frost might kill fruit buds, and poor pollination effected by weather at blossom time might also effect fruit production. The bees will not be out in numbers if it is too cold. One flower in a cluster of blossoms on apples and pears is the major fruit—the King flower. When the fruit forms in early May, it is best to remove the other fruit from the cluster. This thinning will result in the remaining fruit being larger at harvest and prevent biennial bearing.
Apples and pears require cross-pollination. They need two trees of different cultivars reasonably close to each other. Some trees now have multiple cultivars on one graft, but it seems with these that eventually one cultivar dominates. For apples, note that flowering crab apples can provide the necessary cross-pollination, which is another pointer to know where you are going to plant in your landscape. 60 ft to 100 ft is about the best range for bees to cause pollination. Some good disease resistant apple cultivars for Missouri include Redfree, Pristine for early fruit; Liberty, Goldrush, Enterprise, and Jonafree for mid-season; and Arkansas Black for late season, although this is less disease resistant. Among pears, Moonglow, Starkling Delicious, Maxine, Magness and Kieffer do well, also, for something different, Asian Pears do well in Missouri.
Diseases among apples and pears include Apple scab, Fireblight, and Cedar apple rust. Apple scab shows brown spots on the foliage before such leaves fall off, and will show up in scabs and spots on the fruit. Eventually, scabs often crack and fungi enter. It is best to solve this at the time of purchase by seeking out scab resistant cultivars. Fireblight is caused by bacteria. It can be pruned out, but remember to take back further than the visible infected area, as bacteria will be creeping down the branch. Fireblight looks bad, but does not harm the fruit. Cedar apple rust is spread from galls on red cedars that open and produce spores spread by wind to neighboring fruit trees. So, here is a classic example of planting fruit trees in the right place. Do not plant near or downwind of natural red cedars. Cedar apple rust is unsightly on leaves and can cause bumps on fruit, but it does not kill the trees. Some apples and pears will be attacked by worms, borers, and other insect pests. This is where spraying will help in April, May, and early June. Vole damage is often overlooked. Voles can eat away the base of the trunk. The best solution with first year trees is to use trunk protectors or circular cage guards. In later years, watch the trunk girth with these. They will cut into the trunk as it thickens, so before that happens it is time to remove guards. Voles can then be controlled by mowing or mulching. When mowing, however, watch out for mechanical damage. Apple and pear bark is not thick and will wound easily. Mechanical damage can kill trees.
Stone fruits like peaches and cherries grow fast and have early blossom and early fruit in June. Their disadvantage is spring frost, likely at their height of blossom, effecting fruit production, and they are more subject to disease and insect problems. Sweet cherries, Japanese and American plums require cross pollination, but peaches, tart cherries, damson plums, and apricots are all self fruitful. There are many hardy cultivars that are disease free and grow well in the Ozarks if they survive that spring frost. Genetic dwarf peaches make great patio landscaping; another area where these fruit trees can become an integral part of the landscape plan. Only 10% of the flowers are needed to set fruit for a full crop load, so thin out the fruit, especially peaches when fruit is ˝ inch diameter. Fruit should then be spaced about 8” to 12” along the limb. Peaches are subject to leaf curl and brown rot. Leaf curl is a fungal disease that forms in the very early spring and can be offset by a single fungicide spraying in the fall. Brown rot is also fungal, occurring when the fruit is green and hard. The fruit shrivels and rots forming ‘mummies’. Some drop off and some stay on the tree, but they should all be removed, as they are the foundation for the next year’s disease. Correct fungicide spraying can help with this. Bacterial leaf spot is harder to control, so the best solution is to plant high resistant cultivars. Borers and worms are best reduced through spraying the trunk with insecticides. Yates Persimmons, Shenandoah Pawpaws, Figs and Mulberries are interesting to grow, but can be challenging, especially figs. They need to be sheltered in the winter here. Persimmons need male and female trees, and Pawpaws need two cultivars for cross-pollination.
Strawberries are easy to grow, fruit well, and can enhance landscaping, especially patio landscaping, but their main drawback is that they are not competitive with weeds. They can be subject to winter injury and frost damage, too. Weed management is the key with strawberries. Strawberries have a crown mother plant that creates several daughters along stolons or runners, so: “This year’s daughter plants are next year’s fruiting plants.” They are self-fruitful. When planting the mother plants make sure that the soil level is half way between the roots and the crown. Do not plant too deep so foliage is at earth level, or too shallow, so roots are exposed. Plants can die if not at the correct planting level. If you want your first year crown plant to produce lots of daughters, remove the flowers. Plant the crowns 18” apart and in rows about 42” apart. Position the runners to fill the rows. Keep weeding, fertilize in August, and mulch in late fall (November and early December when the ground is cold). Use about 4” of clean straw or use spunbonded row covers. Remove the mulch in March-April the second year. Fruit should be ready in late May/June of the second year. Keep weed-free at all times. Fertilize each August (not in the spring), and mulch in late fall. Periodically remove old mother plants as daughters become second year plants. Don’t uncover too early each year. If there is frost damage it will show in the center of the flower, which is the fruit and will be black instead of cream colored. Strawberry diseases include gray mold on fruit and leaf diseases. Both can be caused by insufficient air movement. Raised beds can help with this, creating more air movement. Diseased leaves should be removed.
Brambles such as raspberries and blackberries, are quick growers, pest resistant, and easy to grow. They can be effected by very cold winters and excessively hot summers, especially raspberries. They are self-fruitful. They come as primocanes, floricanes, and uprights. Blackberries do better in Missouri than raspberries. Primocanes produce first year fruit, whereas floricanes produce second year fruit. For Blackberries, Navaho, Apache, and Arapaho are good Missouri varieties and thornless. Good thorny erect blackberries include Kiowa and Chickasaw. Planted rows of brambles should be 10 ft to 12 ft apart. In planting, red raspberry canes should be 18” to 2ft apart; erect blackberries 2ft to 4ft apart; and semi-erect blackberries (supported by trellis) about 6 ft apart. Red raspberry primocanes can be pruned to the ground in late winter. Floricanes should be thinned removing old canes. Black raspberries and erect blackberries should be thinned to 3 to 6 canes per plant with all dead floricanes removed in winter. The laterals should be shortened to 12” to 18”. Dead canes will be gray and live shoots orange to dark green. For semi-erect blackberries, select 8-10 strong canes and tie them to the trellis in winter or early spring. Remove remaining canes and prune the laterals 18” to 2 ft. Brambles can be effected by orange rust on leaves. If so, remove the plant. Cut out any shoots that show galls. Beetles can attack brambles, especially Japanese Beetles and June Green Beetles. Pick off the scouts in June for minimum damage. If there is cold temperature injury, floricanes may die, but they will still shoot out new primocanes. If there is heat stress it will show in a bubbling appearance to the fruit.
Blueberries look great in landscaping, having multi-seasonal interest, with pink blossom, blue fruit, and vivid orange fall foliage, but birds love them. They are also long lived, but their soil requirements make them difficult to grow in Missouri. They like acid soil with a pH of 4.8 to 5.2. They need the soil to be well drained and high in organic matter. This is not natural in Missouri, so blueberries are probably best grown in raised beds. An 8 ft by 8 ft raised bed will take four blueberries planted in peat moss and require about 15% organic matter in surrounding soil. To lower pH add sulfur. Blueberries are best planted as 2-year old plants spaced between rows of 10 ft to 12 ft and individually spaced 4 ft apart. They are an exception to the rule. They require volcano mulching mounded up the stem! Old sawdust or coffee grounds will work. Begin pruning when bushes are small. Prune when dormant, thinning out and removing older canes, weak shoots, and diseased or dead wood. Try to leave an equal mix of canes of differing age from one to four years. Blueberries need water, so irrigate. They will not stand our normal summer drought conditions without irrigation. Birds are their main adversaries, however. Birds get used to scarecrows so it is best to protect blueberries with netting.
Grapes are hardy, long lived and can have landscaping value in arbors and pergolas, but they do have disease problems, bird problems, and they are high on maintenance. French-American hybrids do best here in Missouri. We are too far north for Muscadines, and a little too far south for most American grapes. The major wine grapes are not hardy here, so we are left with those French-American hybrids like Seyval, Vidal, Vignoles, and Chambourcin. Grapes are self-fruitful. Plant one year rooted cuttings in rows 10 ft apart and space vines about every 8 ft. Grapes require heavy pruning. When pruning remove 60% to 70% of growth in the past season’s clusters leaving just a spur with buds from the cordon growing lateral along the trellis wire. Grapes require a heavy support trellis. The Cordon System of growing grapes is with two main laterals on one wire either side of the trunk. The Kniffen System allows for four major laterals from the trunk along two strands of wire. The lower laterals can become too shaded to fruit well, however. Pruning should be done in early February or March, and even on Pergolas and Arbors 70% should be removed. On an arbor or Pergola, vines should be about 8 ft apart with lateral branches espaliered, but still prune away 60% of previous season’s growth in February or March. Black Rot is the main disease attacking grapes. It is a fungus and starts as a little black spot on the fruit. The affected grapes in a bunch then blacken, shrivel and become raisin ‘mummies’. Mummies left on the ground will effect the vines the next season, so clear them up. The best protection against Black Rot is an appropriate fungicide spray.
Elderberries can make wine, juice or jelly. They grow almost wild in Missouri and are considered by some to be a great health supplement. Gooseberries and currants do not do well in Missouri as they like cool summers. Our winter fluctuations in temperature are not good for Kiwis. Other small fruits we can try are Bush Cherries, Sand Plums, Chokecherries and Cranberries.
This concluded our course for becoming interns in the Master Gardeners’ program. The internship requires thirty hours of appropriate volunteer work, practically and educationally, in Missouri institutions and gardens with an ongoing commitment in the years ahead. Personally, I felt much enriched by the program and thank each and every one of our instructors. I look forward to that close cooperation that I perceive in the relationship of our Master Gardeners and Friends of the Garden within the park complex of the new Springfield-Greene County Botanical Center.
Peter Longley, MA (Cantab) Friends of the Garden, writer and author of novels (www.PeterLongleyBooks.com)
Note from George: As some of you know Peter represented the Friends of the Garden at the American Public Gardens Association (APGA) Conference in St Louis last summer writing an extensive report on the conference. Peter is a member of Friends of the Garden and currently provides us a number of garden services including the maintenance of the English Garden which her also designed and built. Read more about Peter at the Authors Corner http://www.friendsofthegarden.org/authors.html His comprehensive resume and biography is available by request.
Peter's detailed Master Gardeners' Training over the last few weeks has been excellent. He brought educational information that Friends of the Garden members will find important and useful going forward. I believe when many area gardeners review the detail and quality of the Master Gardeners' Training Program that they will want to participate in future classes. I already know I would!
All previous reports were posted over the past few weeks. You may look back in the archives of the blog to locate and review them or you may find them all in a group here> http://www.friendsofthegarden.org/authors.html ]]>http://friendsofthegarden.org/pblog/index.php?entry=entry100314-0909522010-03-14T00:00:00Z2010-03-14T00:00:00ZContainer gardening a boon to succulents with the help of internetContainer gardening a boon to succulents Internet makes it possible to purchase many of the plants. Written by Dean Fosdick • The Associated Press Published in the News-Leader, Delewareonline and other publications
Container gardening and online marketing are increasing the popularity of succulents, transforming the likes of hens and chicks to collectible chic. It wasn't long ago that the eye-catching perennials grew primarily in sun-seared settings. Now they're the playthings of people living in temperate zones.
"There are so many succulents available now (that) we weren't even aware of 10 or 20 years ago. The Internet makes it possible to purchase these plants," said Debra Lee Baldwin, author of "Succulent Container Gardens" (Timber Press, 2010).
Many of the most attractive succulents are native to Madagascar, South Africa and the Caribbean, meaning they're frost tender and do well outdoors only in USDA Zones 9 and 10, Baldwin said. "Container culture offers an ideal solution; anyone, anywhere can grow succulents in pots, which can be sheltered indoors," she said.
Read the rest of this interesting article here> http://www.delawareonline.com/article/2 ... containers]]>http://friendsofthegarden.org/pblog/index.php?entry=entry100313-1854142010-03-13T00:00:00Z2010-03-13T00:00:00ZSpeaking of Antibiotics - We Can Grow a Powerful One in our Own GardensNote from Mimi: Here is an item for the blog to follow up with the post I did about the special expose' report on CBS Evening News about antibiotics in our meat products...
Speaking of Antibiotics - We Can Grow a Powerful One in our Own Gardens
(On Feb 9-10, Katie Couric hosted an expose' on the current usage of antibiotics in our meat animals and the danger that presents in becoming resistant to bacteria as we ingest those into our own bodies... Maybe the farmers should be dosing their hogs and other meat animals with food laced with a natural antibiotic - read this article)
A Natural, More Potent Antibiotic If you could pick one item for your natural medicine cabinet http://www.care2.com/greenliving/diy-me ... edies.html that could ward off cold and flu viruses, eliminate warts, cold sores, athlete’s foot, dandruff, respiratory tract and sinus infections, what would you choose? If oregano oil doesn’t come to mind, it’s time you gave this overlooked and potent remedy its rightful place in your natural first aid kit.
The Research is in: In a study reported by Science Daily Magazine, oil of oregano at relatively low doses was found to be effective against staphylococcus bacteria and was comparable to antibiotics like penicillin in its germ-killing properties. http://www.care2.com/greenliving/a-natu ... iotic.html
Researcher Paul Belaiche reported his exhaustive studies of aromatherapy oils in his three-volume work, entitled, Traite de Phytotherapie et d’Aromatherapie (Treatise on Phytotherapy and Aromatherapy). He used a testing method that allowed him to examine the effectiveness of essential oils against specific bacteria, called an aromatogram. His findings on the effectiveness of oregano oil against many common and insidious bacteria were impressive. He found that oregano oil killed 96 percent of all pneumococcus bacteria, 92 percent of all neisseria, proteus, and staphylococcus bacteria. Some strains of neisseria are responsible for diseases like gonorrhea or meningitis. Proteus is a type of intestinal infection, and staphylococcus is the culprit in some types of food poisoning http://www.care2.com/greenliving/clean- ... ow-to.html
He also found that oregano oil eliminated 83 percent of streptococcus and 78 percent of enterococcus. Various strains of streptococcus have been linked with strep throat, scarlet fever, rheumatic fever, or toxic shock syndrome. Some strains of enterococcus are linked with cystitis, wound infections, and anorexia.
Mother Nature has provided us with a powerful antibiotic in oregano oil. Unlike synthetic antibiotics that are powerless against viruses and funguses, oregano oil is effective against these pathogens too. With its wide variety of uses and potency against so many different types of infections, it is a welcome addition to any first aid kit or natural medicine chest.
Oil of Oregano should be among your top selling products by aromatherapists... I will be buying a supply for sure as I have a severe allergy to most antibiotics offered by the pharmaceutical approach. It makes me very vulnerable in today's world... Mimi
]]>http://friendsofthegarden.org/pblog/index.php?entry=entry100313-0953272010-03-13T00:00:00Z2010-03-13T00:00:00ZCommon plants can be toxic to our curious furry friendsCommon plants can be toxic to our curious furry friends
Common plants found in your home, backyard or property are popular for their decorative and air clearing properties, but many species can be toxic. Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants listed here> http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/plants/
Last year, the ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control Center handled more than 140,000 cases of pets exposed to toxic substances—more than 10,000 of which were related to household plants and garden products. Don’t leave it up to Fido or Fluffy to keep themselves safe—stay informed.
In cooperation with Treviso Media Group, the ASPCA has developed Pet Safe, which is compatible with the iPhone and iPod touch and includes toxic plant information compiled by our team of toxicologists. The application is a great tool when you’re shopping for new houseplants, planning your garden, or checking if the plants in your home or yard are toxic. Pet Safe includes:
1) A searchable database of plants reported to adversely affect the health of dogs, cats and horses. 2) Detailed profiles of each plant, including common and scientific names, images and a list of potential symptoms if ingested. 3) Information to help you if your pet has ingested something toxic. 4) One-touch dialing to the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center.
For complete information on Pet Safe, check here> http://phobos.apple.com/WebObjects/MZSt ... 8&mt=8 ]]>http://friendsofthegarden.org/pblog/index.php?entry=entry100312-2206122010-03-13T00:00:00Z2010-03-13T00:00:00ZEastern redcedars are not technically cedarsEastern redcedars are not technically cedars Written by Francis Skalicky Missouri Department of Conservation Published in the News-Leader
You would laugh out loud if you heard people say cedar trees don't grow in Missouri. You'd probably keep laughing until you looked in a tree book and found out they're right.
The Eastern redcedar is one of the state's most common trees. It can be found virtually everywhere in the Ozarks. Everywhere, that is, but in the "cedar" section of any book about tree species. That's because the Eastern redcedar isn't a cedar tree -- it's a juniper tree. But before we get to that, here's more on the tree Ozarkers both love and hate, the tree that all of us can recognize, but many of us don't know all of its unique details: the Eastern redcedar.
At this time of year, this species' abundance makes it popular with many Missourians who like having live Christmas trees in or around their homes. In addition to providing roosting places for holiday ornaments, Eastern redcedars also can provide windbreaks for livestock, help hold soil in place and provide other benefits to landowners. The tree's wood is used to make chests, closets, interior paneling, posts, woodenware and a variety of novelty items. Refined versions of the tree's resin are used in ointments, shoe polish and soap.
Eastern redcedars also provide valuable habitat for wildlife. The thick placement of the trees in some areas provide nesting and cover for wildlife and its blue berries (which aren't really berries -- yet another cedar misnomer) are a food source for a number of birds.
Despite all these good qualities, Eastern redcedars can become troublesome for farm operators and landowners. The tree's ability to invade and take over a landscape quickly has caused many people to invest in chain saws, axes and other types of tree-clearing equipment.
Even though everyone calls these trees "cedar trees" (and I will too for much of this article), a look at the tree's scientific name Juniperus virgiana reveals its true identity. This name shows why a couple of less-common names for the tree -- red juniper or eastern juniper -- are perhaps more accurate from a taxonomical standpoint. True cedar trees belong to the genus Cedrus and are native to Africa and Asia -- not North America.
This identity secret isn't the only curiously interesting trait the Eastern redcedar has up its sleeve. The Eastern redcedar is a dioecious plant -- which means the species has male and female plants. (A couple of other common Ozark trees that are dioecious are persimmon trees and Osage-orange, or "hedge," trees.)
The majority of tree species in Missouri are monoecious, which means they have the components of both genders on the same plant. A natural advantage of a tree being dioecious is that the females are guaranteed of producing genetically varied offspring.
In a monoecious setup, there's a higher likelihood of producing an exact replica of the parent, which isn't always a good thing in a natural world where species constantly need to improve themselves.
Another interesting cedar trait involves the tree's bluish-purple berries it produces in the late summer and fall. As was stated earlier, these aren't berries -- they're small cones that appear on the female trees. Each cone contains four tiny seeds. These seeds are the source of all the cedar trees we have popping up around us, but don't blame the seeds -- blame the birds that eat them.
Eastern redcedars are one of several plant species that depend on birds to be their primary seed distributors. In the case of the Eastern redcedar, birds ingest the seed cone, the protective coating is broken down by digestive juices through a process called scarification and the seeds are passed out of the birds in their feces. (This is why it's common to see cedar trees growing in old fence rows where birds commonly perch.) This method of seed dispersal provides a greater capacity for seed propagation to plants that lack the ability for widespread seed dispersal.
Some plants' dependency on birds has evolved to the point that their seeds won't germinate unless the seeds' protective coats have been broken down by an animal's digestive juices.
Information about the Eastern redcedar and other Missouri trees can be found in the Missouri Department of Conservation publication, "Fifty Common Trees of Missouri." This free booklet is available at the Missouri Department of Conservation's Southwest Regional Office in Springfield.
Information on how to obtain this book is also available at other Department of Conservation offices in the area. Tree information can also be found at www.missouriconservation.org
Francis Skalicky is the media specialist for the Missouri Department of Conservation's Southwest Region. For more information about conservation issues, call 417-895-6880 or email Francis.Skalicky@mdc.mo.gov
]]>http://friendsofthegarden.org/pblog/index.php?entry=entry100312-0927092010-03-12T00:00:00Z2010-03-12T00:00:00ZA Discussion About Plant Hardiness ZonesA Discussion About Plant Hardiness Zones Published in the News-Leader, January 24, 2010 Written by Mark Bernskoetter, Master Gardener •
Question: I've heard some discussion about "plant hardiness zones," but I don't really know what that is or how it affects my plants. How can I learn more, now that planting season is here?
Answer: Environmental factors like heat, compacted soils, cold temperatures and various pest problems, make growing landscape plants in the Ozarks a real challenge.
However, there is hope. Gardeners can minimize these environmental factors by knowing the specific requirements of plants in our area. Also, doing your homework before purchasing plants will increase your plant successes. For example, most gardeners should become familiar with the U.S. Department of Agriculture's "Cold Hardiness Zone Map." First published in 1960, this map is based on average annual minimum temperatures recorded throughout North America. By using the map to find the zone where you live, you can determine which plants will "winter over" in your garden because they can withstand these temperatures.
The hardiness zone ranges from Zone 1, which is Fairbanks, Alaska to Zone 11, Honolulu, Hawaii.
Most of the plant zone for southwest Missouri is 6-A (average minimal temperature of -5 to -10 degrees). The Branson area is rated as 6-B (average minimal temperature of 0 to -5 degrees).
When plants are purchased from your local nursery, plants should not be available that are not hardy to your area unless special precautions are indicated. In most cases attached plant labels will indicate the zone most suitable for your plants.
Another useful map, besides the USDA "Plant Hardiness Zone Map," is the "American Horticultural Society Plant Heat-Zone Map." This map helps gardeners determine a plant's likelihood for survival from extremes in temperatures. This 12-zone map indicates the average number of "heat days" each year that a region experiences. "Heat days" are those days with temperatures over 86 degrees, the point at which plants experience damage to cellular proteins.
Southwest Missouri's heat zone is seven because this area has an average of 61 to 90 days with temperatures above 86 degrees. When used in conjunction with the Plant Hardiness Zone Map, consumers can select plants that may do well in their gardens throughout the year. For more information about the heat zone map, visit: http://www.ahs.org/publications/heat_zone_map.htm
Many environmental and plant growing factors account for a healthy and productive plant. Again, the more tools and knowledge you have to make better management and gardening decisions, greater satisfaction and more beautiful plants should be the result.
Mark Bernskoetter is a trained Master Gardener who lives in Springfield. Readers can pose questions to Mark at his Web site, www.GardenOnThe.com or by leaving a message with the University of Missouri Extension Master Gardener Hotline at 862-9284. ]]>http://friendsofthegarden.org/pblog/index.php?entry=entry100311-1320002010-03-11T00:00:00Z2010-03-11T00:00:00ZMailboxes Can be Exciting Landscape ProjectUNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI EXTENSION SOUTHWEST REGION NEWS SERVICE
Mailboxes Can be Exciting Landscape Project
The area around residential mailboxes can be an exciting landscape design project according to Mark Bernskoetter, a member of the Master Gardeners of Greene County.
With any landscape project it is important to keep the conditions of the growing site in mind. Does it get sun or shade? How much water does it get? “With any landscape project you have to select plants suited to your growing conditions. Then select the plants you like, keeping things like color, texture, shape and size in mind,” said Bernskoetter.
To determine the width of this type of landscaped area, Bernskoetter recommends incorporating an area about as wide as the mailbox is tall. “A 4-foot mailbox should have a bed about 4-feet out from the mailbox itself. This will help the mailbox better blend into the landscaped area,” said Bernskoetter.
In the remainder of the bed, layer the plants so shorter plants are to the outside and taller plants are around the mailbox, at the center or at the back of the bed.
Adding hardscape (like a couple of small boulders) is another consideration. Keep in mind that hardscape should be done in odd numbers, and the mailbox counts as one piece of hardscape.
Vines growing on a mailbox are common, but Bernskoetter recommends using dwarf varieties that won’t overtake the opening.
“There are some dwarf clematis and climbing miniature roses that may fit into your plan,” said Bernskoetter. “Ultimately, keep in mind, that you want to keep the way clear for your mail carrier, so plan accordingly.”
Homeowners also need to plan to keep the sidewalk clear of shrub branches. For that reason, it is best to use compact, upright plants instead of varieties that tend to sprawl or flop over.
For more information on this or other garden and lawn related issues, call the Master Gardener hotline at the Greene County Extension Center, (417) 862-9284.
University of Missouri Extension programs focus on the high-priority needs of Missourians. Each county extension center, with oversight by locally elected and appointed citizens, is your local link to practical education on almost anything.
Question contact: Mark Bernskoetter Greene County chapter of Master Gardeners Tel: (417) 862-9284
Note from George: Visit Mark's interesting website: http://www.gardenonthe.com/ GardenOnThe.com gathers many of the best websites available today for gardening ideas, information, and knowledge on the web. Click on the topic you would like to explore and select one of his favorite websites to view. ]]>http://friendsofthegarden.org/pblog/index.php?entry=entry100311-0816552010-03-11T00:00:00Z2010-03-11T00:00:00ZAgenda for the Friends of the Garden Meeting - Thur, March 11 at 5:00 pmAgenda for the Friends of the Garden Meeting Thursday, March 11, 2010 at 5:00 pm Chesterfield Family Center, 2511 W. Republic Rd.
Call to Order: 5:00 pm - Roll call of the board members by Gail S. Approval of Minutes: Prepared by Bob Childress. (Received by email) Treasurer's Report: Prepared by Kauleen V. (Received by email)
Guest Speaker: March speaker Mark and/or Renae Bernskoetter on the Master Gardener Green County organization. Renae is current President while Mark is Past President.
Reports Development Group: 1) Susan B...Development - overall review of the committee meeting details from March 9th. 2) George D...Approx 350 current paid members. Our goal is still 1000 members by the opening of the Botanical Center... Invite a Friend. The importance of networking with people you know... Hand out fliers to people... Ask people if they want to join FOG... We must "grow" more members if we are to continue growing FOG and our garden services... Please consider membership growth as a major board member responsibility. Names to add to the direct mail list? Please, let Kauleen know. 3) Publicity: A) Lee C...Developments in the revised FOG web site www.friendsofthegarden.org B) Lee C...The new speakers bureau - Want to help, please contact Lee. C) George F... Review Spring Newsletter progress. D) Jeanne D...Review publicity last 30 days, column, news articles and broadcasts. 4) Cindy W... Butterfly Festival review meeting held Feb 27. Date of next meeting, any needs, etc. 5) Cindy W...Review new members packet under development.
Reports Garden Group: 1) Bob C...Garden review Adopt-A-Garden, gardens that still need to be adopted, etc. 2) Bob C...Review development plans for new Confer Garden. 3) Bob C...Review Redbud, Native Shrub Garden progress & Wildflower Garden & Butterfly House expansion 4) Bob K...Developing a team of docents for the 2010 butterfly project. 5) George D...Vandalism, Gray-Campbell property broken into last month. 6) Bill R... Report on Audrey the Corpse Flower Display (See report below).
Old Business: 1) Dana M... Review volunteers and Lawn & Garden Show. Events coming next 30 days, need volunteers for: Ag Day at Rutledge-Wilson Mar 20th; Sister Cities Spring Kite Festival, Sat Mar 27th; Naturescaping at Nature Center, Apr 3rd. 2) Building Construction - You can view the newest video update posted here>> http://extension.missouri.edu/greene/bo ... eral.shtml 3) Fund set up at CFO "Friends of the Garden Growth & Maintenance Fund". The address for tax deductible donation is: Community Foundation of the Ozarks, 425 E. Trafficway, Springfield, MO 65806 or send it direct to Friends of the Garden. Enter "Friends of the Garden Growth & Maintenance Fund" on the memo line. 4) Any one interested in assisting either the Development, Garden, Publicity or other FOG groups please contact George D or any group chair to join. We need the input from all board members and other FOG members who would like to assist with our growth during 2010 and beyond. 5) George D...New Botanical Center Coordinator hire date is approx mid April. and 6) George D...Guide by Cell http://www.guidebycell.com/ Garden Tour package contract signed and work has begun on scripts and recording them by Frank Shipe, Peter Longley & Christine. 5) Bob C... Support for Greene County Extension Service - FOG Sponsor a table of 10 at their fund raising dinner July 10th - local office operating budget problems impact Master Gardener, 4-H, other programs, and the Botanical Center learn more> http://friendsofthegarden.org/pblog/ind ... 112-165748
Other Business: 1) George D... Board meet agenda posted to blog & minutes posted after approval. 2) George D... Executive Committee members George D; Bob K; Kauleen V; Gail S; Major C; Bob C; Susan B; Cindy W; Christine C.-- Please feel free to make any suggestions to any member. 3) George D... Did anyone attend the first Missouri Native Plant Society meeting 3/9/10? 4) Additional:
Adjournment ]]>http://friendsofthegarden.org/pblog/index.php?entry=entry100310-1733072010-03-10T00:00:00Z2010-03-10T00:00:00ZExplore Local MU Extension Resources on March 11, In Southwest Missouri...UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI EXTENSION SOUTHWEST REGION NEWS SERVICE
Explore Local MU Extension Resources on March 11, In Southwest Missouri...
University of Missouri Extension offices located in southwest Missouri provide services and educational programs that reach thousands of people each month.
This month, Tuesday, March 11, is being set aside as a “Day in the Life” to provide a snapshot of what MU Extension is doing in southwest Missouri.
Residents are encouraged to explore the programs and resources offered by MU Extension on March 11 by attending a program, visiting or calling the nearest MU Extension office, or exploring online resources at http://extension.missouri.edu.
Scheduled programs and activities that day include the following:
· The Nutrition Education Assistants working with MU Extension in southwest Missouri will be active on March 11, teaching nutrition and health education to both adults and children at varied locations. MU Extension will be providing nutrition education at places like the Main Street Learning Center (alternative school) in Republic, the Salvation Army in Springfield, Pregnancy Care Center, and at various WIC clinics and elementary schools in this region.
· “Computer Basics” will be taught from 8 a.m. to noon at the Tri-Lakes TCRC, 20277 Hwy. 413 in Reeds Spring. Call (417) 272-8707 to register for this hands-on class.
· In cooperation with MU Extension, a veterinarian will be conducting breeding soundness exams (BSE) on bulls March 11 at Countryside Animal Clinic, Aurora. For more information contact Eldon Cole at (417) 466-3102.
· “Stay Strong, Stay Healthy,” noon to 1 p.m., at St. Andrew Lutheran Church, Hwy. 39 south of Stockton. This 10-week weight training class helps with strength, flexibility and balance. Call the Cedar County Extension office at (417) 276-3313 to register.
· “Advanced Stay Strong, Stay Healthy,” 2 p.m. to 3 p.m., at St. Patrick Catholic Church, 51 Route H, Greenfield. Call (417) 682-3579 for more information on this and future classes.
· “Master Gardener Level I Training,” 1 p.m. to 4 p.m., inside the Jasper County Central Annex, 105 Lincoln, Carthage. To learn more about the Ozark Gateway Master Gardeners Club call the Jasper County Extension Center, (417) 358-2158.
· A pesticide applicator training session is set for 1 p.m. on March 11, in the basement of the Lawrence County Courthouse, Mt. Vernon. Contact the Lawrence County Extension Center at 417-466-3102 if you are unable to attend this session to learn other options for training.
· “Master Gardener Level I Training,” 1 p.m. to 4 p.m., at the Cedar County Library in Stockton. To learn more about these courses in Cedar County call (417) 276-3313.
· The 4-H Afterschool “NASA Education Program” will meet from 1:30 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. at the Hylton Library in Golden City, Mo. For more information about this and other 4-H programs contact 4-H Assistant Jerry Davis (417) 682-3579.
· “Investing Ideas for Small Business Owners: How to Analyze a Mutual Fund,” will be offered from 2:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. in room 104 of Plaster Hall on the campus of Missouri Southern State University. For more information about the Small Business Technology and Development Center in Jasper County, contact Kathy Macomber at (417) 682-3579.
· “Friends of the Garden” a group dedicated to raising money for the botanical center and gardens in Springfield meets from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. at the Chesterfield Family Center in Springfield. For more information about this group contact Patrick Byers at (417) 862-9284 or visit www.friendsofthegarden.org
· “Building the Ultimate Business Plan,” 6 p.m. to 9 p.m., at the Small Business Technology and Development Center inside Glass Hall on the campus of Missouri State University, 901 S. National, Springfield Mo. To learn more about the SBTDC, call (417) 836-5685.
· The Rough Riders 4-H club will meet from 6:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. at the Wolfe Center in Lamar, Mo. For more information contact 4-H Assistant Jerry Davis (417) 682-3579.
Every day of the week, MU Extension programs and activities help young people learn life skills, teach aspiring entrepreneurs, help existing businesses, share research-based information and practices with farmers and agribusinesses, teach families about healthy nutrition, fitness and lifestyle behaviors, provide training to firefighters, nurses, law enforcement officers, teachers and others maintain and upgrade their professional skills and certifications; and help communities develop local leaders and deal with critical issues in a non-biased, neutral way.
The monthly “Day in the Life” features are planned to demonstrate the impact MU Extension has on southwest Missouri. During the “Day in the Life” event on Feb. 18, over 2,530 people attended MU Extension programs and events in southwest Missouri.
Questions contact: David Burton, civic communication specialist Headquartered in Greene County Tel: (417) 862-9284 or e-mail: burtond@missouri.edu ]]>http://friendsofthegarden.org/pblog/index.php?entry=entry100310-0838132010-03-10T00:00:00Z2010-03-10T00:00:00Z